My trombone is an Edwards Allessi T-396. It is a very fine instrument, and less than a year old. I have handled it very carefully and cleaned it regularly as would befit a concert-level instrument. In return, it always yields a beautiful tone and consistent response. It is a joy to play. You can imagine my concern when I noticed what seemed to be damage to the lead pipe from my holding the instrument.
The lead pipe is where the slide connects to the bell of the trombone. It is also the primary point of contact with the left hand. The left hand wraps around half of the lead pipe and carries most of the weight of the instrument. Normally brass instruments are lacquered so that body oils and sweat do not tarnish the brass. I was thinking that it was quite early in the life of the instrument to be wearing through the lacquer.
It took a couple of days, and then the penny dropped – I remembered that on this trombone, the lead pipe is silver! It wasn’t a lacquer issue – it was just tarnish – tarnish that would come off with silver polish. So, I set in with the polishing paste and was soon making a dent in it. Apparently I should have caught this sooner as it was a fair bit of elbow grease, but I got it almost totally off. You can see in the picture that there is still some that didn’t polish out, but it is MUCH better than where I started. The small remainder will come off in a week when I clean the instrument again. I am happy that I know what is going on, and that I can maintain the instrument properly from here out. This wear will easily polish out with some more work.
To help reduce the maintenance I purchased a set of leather covers from Christian Greigo from his site. I purchased the Symphonic Slide Kit. This will keep direct hand contact off the silver lead pipe and reduce the time that I spend polishing. Christian is the designer of the Alessi model, and one of the leading brass instrument designers in the country. I happen to have one of his mouthpieces on my instrument as well, so it was an easy choice for $25. I’m sure I’ll still have some occasional work to do, but now I know how to keep my horn in like new condition. It is too large an investment not to care for it in an optimal way.
Trombonist James Markey holds the bass trombone chair at the Boston Symphony Orchestra, after stints in Philadelphia and NYC. He is a fine player in all respects, as you might expect for someone who has played in not one but three of our country’s leading orchestras. In 2003, he released an album titled “Offroad”, on the tenor trombone. It was recommended to me by my trombone teacher as an example of near perfect playing and articulation. I have been listening to the album regularly and using it to hone my expectation for what comes out the bell of my horn. His playing is lyrical, expressive, and highlights the best parts of trombone tone from soft and mellow to biting fortissimo. His legato is particularly excellent, and he seems able to phrase anything to perfection. His recordings are a clinic on beautiful and excellent trombone playing. Highly recommended.
In 2009, he released an album specifically for the bass trombone entitled “on base”. Both are on Spotify, or available online through the usual channels.
Here’s a recent interview where he discusses his background and history with the instrument.
Well, I have had the Seaboard for a month now! After the initial exploration of finding out how it worked, what its range of expression is, etc, I have now settled down to just using it. At the moment, my focus is mostly on playing it. I still have not begun crafting unique sounds for it. Sound design is usually time-consuming and right now, my time is better spent on actually playing it, and getting the necessary work done in Max for the organ console functions I’m building for the DSO.
It is a very expressive keyboard. I am getting much more even responses from it as my fingers are growing accustomed to the surface. It is now rare to get notes that stick out due to excessive velocity. My work on the DSO is typically in 2-4 parts, and rarely a solo line. The Seaboard offers the ability to use poly-pressure to accent voices in a chord, or swell held notes, etc. I still have much to learn in this regard.
It is clear that the Seaboard works as a very expressive solo instrument. Can I match Edmund Eagen’s Continuum work? Not yet, not even close. The continuum has three dimensions of real-time control, and Eagen is a master sound designer. His custom Continuum sounds are quite well done. The reality is that the Seaboard should be capable of equal expression. The missing third dimension of control can easily be supplied by a pedal input. As time progresses and these get into more musicians hands, I’m sure we will see increasingly expressive work come out. For myself, the musicality of Eagen’s work is a target for what I get out of the Seaboard.
I think that the primary benefit of the Seaboard as an alternate controller is in the familiar tonal spacing and organization of the keyboard. For pure solo expression, I suspect a Continuum is more direct, and the half-size version is more than adequate for soloing. As tempo increases, per-note expressiveness decreases – one’s finger is just not in contact with the surface as much. It is little wonder than many of the demonstrations of these controllers feature slower tempos where one can really “work” the notes. Those are the kinds of pieces that show the unique capabilities of these instruments.
So, after a month, I am mostly in playing mode. First comes the playing, then maximizing expressiveness, then application to musical context. This will continue to be a rewarding journey.
As I continue to learn how to play the Seaboard, the ability to play the black-key-notes in-between the white keys continues to provide interesting results. I notice the possibilities especially when playing consecutive thirds. In a key like E with plenty of black key notes, the hand hardly has to move. There is no need to move up and down off the black keys, and the simple shift of a finger or thumb can grab the next note.
So far, I have had no trouble switching back and forth between a regular piano keyboard and the Seaboard. On the Seaboard, I am approaching it as a new instrument with its own technique, and so, I am making maximum use of the new black key location. My goal is a leas-motion, effortless technique, and the Seaboard has new possibilities in this regard.
As I continue playing the Seaboard, I’m sure that I will continue to uncover interesting possibilities.
Long-time readers (and occasional Google searcher for VAX77 related sites) know that I have one of the original VAX77’s from Infinite Response. It has been a wonderful keyboard, and is the most expressive piano-action keyboard I’ve played. With the high-resolution MIDI it is a joy to play Pianoteq and other pianos on it. It is the standard keyboard at my desk for composing music. When gigging out, the folding feature has been nothing short of brilliant – the whole keyboard fits in a suitcase sized rolling case and weighs less than 50lbs – a far cry from a full workstation!
A bit over a year ago, the folk at Infinite Response stopped updating their website and left it with a note saying that they were shifting to researching a way to lower the cost and improve the VAX and stopped taking orders. A few weeks ago, a banner said that there would soon be a Kickstarter, and indeed, it is here!
From the video, it does look like they’ve made a better keyboard, and have a simple, reliable sensing mechanism. They have also hit a great price point, with 88-note versions available for as low as $700 on the Kickstarter. They have a special “limited-edition” white that is only available during the Kickstarter window. When I bought my VAX77, I elected for the fire-engine red model, though apparently, they sold very, very few of them and ultimately only sold black. I figured that all keyboards (except Nords…) are black, why not get red?
Should I get one? Probably not. My VAX77 is in perfect working condition, and is still a joy to play. I don’t really need another piano-style controller. If you are in the market for one, you should check this out. I’m sure if the key action is improved from a VAX77, it will be a very special action to play. I like what I have much better than any weighted action I’ve played on a workstation or digital piano.
Here in the States, Monday has been a holiday to celebrate the accomplishments of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. I was able to get a whole piece written and sketched out for a project I am working on with a vocalist. It isn’t ready for release yet, but so satisfying to get down piano, strings, drums, etc in a way that has the complete musical idea. Those of you that produce commercial tracks know how much work goes into the actual production, but I have that happy feeling of having been creative and finishing a project.
I have written previously about my decision to use an off-the-shelf box of MIDI buttons to serve as stop control. The MIDIfighter 3D sends MIDI notes as its data output. It also can receive MIDI notes, with different velocities indicating to the unit what color it should make the rings around each button. When the MIDIfighter receives a note-on, this overrides whatever the normal “off” setting is for each ring, and persists until it receives a note-off message.
In this way it is possible for me to preset the MIDIfighter with my own color scheme to organize the buttons. I can use a color for couplers, a different one for combinations, something for individual stops, etc. Then, when I select one by pushing a button, I can use Max to generate a Note-On message with appropriate velocity to provide a visual indication of what is selected. When I push the button again or “retire the stop”, then Max will send a Note-Off message, returning the button to its default color. In the world of virtual organs – this is something that not all sample sets support in Hauptwerk. With the proper Max patch, the DSO will have lighted pistons!
With this patch, I learned a number of new things about Max, particularly about its internal order of operations, which are quite important in the signal flow of this patch. At the very top of the patch, I use the “notein” object to only take note data from the MIDIfighter – it can also send out CC data due to accelerometers in it on two axis, but I don’t want that data. The “stripnote” object ensures that I only see note-on messages – it tosses note-off objects on the floor. This is perfect, because I only need the note-ons, and will generate the note-offs myself in the rest of the patch. I actually only need the note-number, which is why I only use the leftmost outlet of this object. The integer box is just so I can see what is happening, and the “clear” message zero’s the array for debugging when clicked – in normal use it does nothing.
The real action depends on the next two boxes – the “table” object and the “value” object. I knew there had to be the equivalent of a traditional array in Max, just like every other language, and sure enough, that is what the table object is. It defaults to having 128 rows, which is perfect for receiving note values. By default the table is all 0’s, which is perfect. I have 64 possible note values, spread across 4 “pages” of the MIDIfighter’s buttons. By giving the table a name, it becomes globally referenceable in the patch, which we will need to make this work. The “value” object serves to create a global variable named notenum that I can reference later.
The actual program logic works as follows:
1. Take the note number and look it up in the buttons table.
2. If that value is “0”, then we currently “Off” and need to turn “On”
a) set the value in buttons to “1” to indicate that we are “on”
b) send the appropriate MIDI note to the MIDIfighter to change the ring color
3. If the value is “1”, then we are already “On”, and need to turn “OFF”
a) set the value in buttons to “0” to indicate that we are “off”
b) send the appropriate MIDI note-off to the MIDIfighter to change the ring color back to default
It is a very simple state machine, with the state held in an array.
The order of operations becomes very important throughout the bottom portion of the patch, and things are lined up left-to-right in a very intentionally. Execution is from right-to-left and then depth-before breadth. So for the “table buttons” objects, they execute when triggered by their Left inlet. That means that I need to have the value I want to set at the right inlet BEFORE the notenumber triggers the table insert operation. Max is an interesting language. A lot of the function of objects is built into the order and inlets of the object. Reading the documentation is mandatory for sorting out how to get the results you wish. This same logic applies to the “noteout” object at the very bottom of the patch. It receives data right to left, so that when it finally gets the notenumber input on its left-most inlet, it has everything it needs to form the note correctly and send it out to the MIDIfighter.
So this was a fun little exercise. I had a bit of logic debugging to fully understand the order of operations as applied to the objects I was using, but in the end I learned several things: how to use arrays, how to declare and use global variables, that the “if…then” statement could directly output a gate or “bang” as Max calls it.
The lighting part was the trickiest part. I now have button state held in a global array, so it should be trivial to use this state to open and close ranks, send MIDI panics, etc. We’ll be getting to those as the project progresses and the console comes to life! These LED rings become more visible the less stage light there is, and so will be viable in all lighting conditions.
Future work will involve choosing a final color scheme and then adding logic so that the “off” and “on” colors correspond to brighter and dimmer versions of the same color across all 64 buttons. I will leave un-used buttons completely dark so they are not confusing. Some buttons, like the general cancel and MIDI panic buttons will not be latching, and will need to be filtered out before this logic takes place. All of that is simple work that will easily build on top of this foundation.
The primary way of modifying the color and behavior of the MIDIfighters is through a small software utility DJ TechTools calls “mfUtiliy”.
Using this tool, I can easily set the default “on” and “off” colors for each button, on each of the 4 layers. The “off” colors are the outside ring, the “on” colors are the button center. The actual buttons are solid black plastic and do not light up, this is just a GUI thing.
I find the Midifighter 3D very powerful, because I am never more than one button away from any other bank, so it really is 64 buttons in an 8×8″ cube. There is extensive integration with Traktor DJ software and Ableton, but I ignore all of that. The mfUtility application sets up the base unit, and then my Max code can change the LED ring to the “on” color for me, and maintain it until I clear the stop or coupler manually.
mfUtility is also used to flash the firmware. I had a problem with my Midfighter Twister the first time I used the application. It suggested that an update was needed, so I dutifully pushed the button. It downloaded new firmware, and erased the flash, and then failed to load the new image onto the device. This bricked the unit, and it was completely non-responsive to all recovery efforts. DJ TechTools RMA’d it without question and sent a FedEx envelope for the return, which was a nice touch. They have been a pleasure to communicate with after the sale and quite helpful. As with all things computer, if you don’t know what a firmware update is going to buy you, it may not be worth doing!
The unit has a bunch of very flashy animations that can happen when you push a button. I suppose they would video well for the DJ booth shot videos. For my application, the button animations are simply distracting, so I turned them all off. I will devise a color scheme to mark buttons for stops, combinations, couplers, MIDI panic, etc.
The guide for using MIDI note-on messages with the MIDIfighter 3D seems to be here, but my unit with current firmware does not match that guide at all. Contacting DJ Tech Tools, I was told to download the guide from their Spectra. This guide exactly matches my unit, and allows me to do what I want to do. This chart from the manual has the correct velocities.
For me, the basic workflow is to use the mfUtility software to set the default “off” state of the buttons in each layer to the lighter version of a color. Then I use Max to set the “On” color to the brightest value for that color when I push the button. In this way, the color-coding of stops will always be apparent whether latched on or off. This will be important for manually changing registration on the fly.
The mfUtility software is basic and has been a mixed experience for me. On my OSX 10.9.4 laptop, it works fine with my Midifighter 3D. On my OSX 10.9.4 Mac Pro, it insists that my Midifighter 3D has old firmware and refuses to work without flashing the device. After my negative experience with bricking my Twister, I’m not about to let it touch what works fine on my laptop. Once I get my devices fully setup, I doubt I will have much ongoing need, so this is teething issues, I suspect.
So, I think my summary is that I like the hardware, but the software utility is not inspiring confidence. Several of the controls don’t seem to do what the manual says (at least until you get the right manual). That said, they seem like a reliable controller in the physical domain, and I will be using Max to make them what I desire in the MIDI domain. They very reliably sent and receive MIDI, and really, that is all I need them to do. I know the firmware is mostly made for DJ’s running DJ software, so there may be subtleties there that I am just not hip to, and reasons why my experience has been what it is. I suspect that most use these on factory defaults with DJ software. I just want it to be a box of knobs or a box of buttons as appropriate.
The Axoloti Indigogo project is extremely interesting to any synthesizer-oriented musician. Details here:
There are software modular synths – Native Instruments Reaktor comes immediately to mind, for example, and is extremely deep and powerful. Arguably one could do almost anything in it. This project is interesting because once you make a patch, the patch is compiled and loaded into the onboard memory of the circuit board. The unit is then a stand-alone hardware synth that plays that sound – no computer, no Mainstage, no VSTs or AUs. It is about 10 voice polyphonic on a 3 oscillator patch, which is really quite good.
As an open source project, all the source code is available and so, anyone can modify, add, etc. as interested.
Some will use this as a guitar effects box, or a delay unit, etc. I will use it as a small stand-alone synth voice that adds polyphony without burdening any of my computers or other synths. I can build a signature sound into it, and then that sound is always available! I suspect that some kind of patch storage is coming, but even if not, the rich data from the Seaboard should be able to drive a very expressive lead sound or something cool.
The ability to have a truly modular and flexibly patched synthesizer for a mere 60 Euro is a great deal, and I’m looking forward to getting mine. The campaign is fully funded, so if you are interested, place an other and get one of these while they are available.
Every musician who makes music with a computer has a use for knobs and buttons. Computer keyboards are made for text entry, not controlling parameters or signaling desired activity. When one goes looking for knobs and buttons, there are LOTS of choices. The large MI companies make dizzying amount of cheap plastic controllers with keys, knobs, faders and buttons. While plentifully cheap, they are often not that durable, and exude “cheap” instead of nice. The best controls are often on much more expensive “controller keyboards”. But what if one already has lots of keyboards (I do…), and just needs a compact bank of knobs or buttons? And I want it to be nice – not $1000 nice, but better than $50 nice.
I don’t know what caused me to think it, but I thought “DJ’s!” DJ’s need durable controllers – someone must make something for DJ’s to perform on! I quickly found Livid Instruments – very nice stuff, but almost too feature-rich. All of their devices did more than I needed (and cost more too). Then I found DJ Tech Tools, a local San Francisco company.
Now, anyone that knows me would not be likely to say that I am very oriented to the EDM/DJ culture. I listen to it from time to time, but Kebu is more my thing than Skrillex for sure! I’ve never used Traktor or Serato, and have only the vaguest notion of how they work. What I know is gleaned from skimming the DJ Tech Tools site! But, the fine beat-makers and cool people over there also make some hardware. They make it durable, simple, and compact.
I bought my “box of knobs” several months ago and use it with my orchestral samples to draw in automation curves for MIDI CC numbers. Works perfectly, and slots in price-wise at just over $200 – Goldilocks “just right”. It is a quality unit and feels solid and “all of a piece”. They call this box the “Midi Fighter Twister“, I believe. It has three buttons on each side of it in order to integrate with DJ software, but I can’t comment on any of that. It sits on my desk and is a box of nice MIDI knobs. It is bus powered via USB, and no drivers are required. Usefully, each knob can also be pushed as a MIDI button. 16 high-quality and good feeling knobs + 16 MIDI buttons in an 8″x8” package easily fits on my desk or perched on a blank spot on a keyboard. As you rotate a knob, the lights show roughly where the knob is at. Their mfUtility software can be used to change the color swatch under the knob so you can assign colors to functions, etc. The knobs are fairly long-throw to get to MIDI 127, so they enable quite fine control over parameters, which is exactly how it should be on a controller.
As I’m working on the Digital Synthesis Organ (DSO), I was thinking about how I wanted to change sounds. I thought about buying organ thumb pistons and doing custom MIDI wiring work, in a custom Lucite “mini-console” but I realized that if I was going to memorize piston numbers, I could just as easily work with a button matrix. Enter the “MIDI Fighter 3D” – DJ Tech Tool’s box-of-buttons.
This is a powerful controller. It is just as well-made as its knobby cousin. Both have a grippy rubber surround and a quality feel. This one has 16 arcade buttons, each surrounded by an LED ring. There is software that lets me assign the color of the ring and then a 2nd color to indicate a press of the button. You can also see in the picture that there are four “bank” buttons on the unit, turning the 16 buttons into 64.
This is perfect for the DSO – The controller is small, light, looks cool, and the color rings will be quite useful to me. I can have colors represent different functions, sound families, divisional vs. global presets, etc. The ability to show which buttons are “latched” will be visual indication of which stops are pulled on the DSO. The black rubber finish looks perfect next to the Seaboard, and there is clean visual integration from a stage perspective. With two of these doing stop control on my left, and the Abelton push on my right, it should look properly spaceship like. It will certainly NOT look like a traditional organ console!
The MIDI Fighter 3D is also motion sensitive and senses tilt and roll. Mine will likely live its life right next to the Seaboard on the DSO stand, but if the promo videos are any indication, apparently DJs can dance around with them, triggering sounds and such. I demonstrated my DJ dance for my teenage kids, but they were not impressed, so I guess we’ll cancel that part of the first DSO concert and stick to the playing.
DJ Tech Tools ships each unit with one of their right-angle MIDI cables. They are nice, but only 6′ long, which I’m sure is fine in a DJ booth. 6′ is way too short for running up and down keyboard stands, but if you need short cables, they are quite nice. Also, they make something called “Chroma Caps” that can replace all the knobs on the knobby unit with colors of one’s choosing. If you have dedicated knobs to functions, this could be a good “mod” to your setup.
If you need either knobs or buttons for your MIDI rig, I’d highly recommend these controllers. They are priced fairly and do a great job without having to pay for stuff that you may not need. If you need more, by all means look at the beautiful Livid Instruments stuff. It is great to see the industry maturing to the point that we are getting “nice” MIDI controllers and not just “lowest cost” stuff. For electronic musicians – these are part of our instruments – they should feel good, perform well, and be satisfying like the rest of our rig. You won’t go wrong with their stuff, and after you buy, you’ll get newsletters keeping you current with what is happening in DJ world. It is amazing how big the musical world is, and for me that represent a view into a totally different world.
Update 1/15/2015 – The folk at DJ TechTools pointed out to me that the Twister has buttons along each side of the unit that can be set up to bank the knobs. So, just like the 3D, it turns into 64 knobs and 64 buttons! Very powerful. I was happy with 16!